Sushi Yoshi succeeds, does not exceed

As you walk in to Sushi Yoshi, the first question asked is: “Do you have a reservation?” Reservations seem a bit out of place in the small and quiet restaurant.

The modern hanging lamps are a contrast to the traditional fabric prints on the walls, which surround the small tables sprinkled throughout the room. The look hovers between eclectic and mismatched. In the back of the room, behind a tall bar, the sushi chefs are at work, crafting rolls and sashimi in front of patrons.

Once seated, drinks and appetizers come within no time. The house salad, which comes with most entrees, is a crunchy combination of fresh lettuce, julienned carrots and a sweet carrot-ginger dressing. Miso soup also comes with most entrees; however, like the salad, it is not distinctive or unusual.

Crisp and flaky, the tempura vegetables and shrimp are a showcase for the restaurant’s frying skills. However, the lack of strong flavor and small portion size are significant drawbacks. As one of the cheaper items on the menu, the portion size is a disappointment. Nevertheless, the tempura is excellent when dipped in the sauces provided.

The sushi itself is probably the flagship of Sushi Yoshi’s operation, as the restaurant works hard to promote it. Its California rolls are just what they are expected to be. The sashimi is very fresh, and all the pieces are arranged well on a rectangular plate. The high price per piece, though, makes one expect something more.

However, for this Japanese restaurant the true quality lies not in the sushi but in the lunch box specials. The tempura and Teriyaki Chicken lunch box, for example, is under $20. It provides not only the main entrees, but some peculiar yet satisfying side dishes, including miso soup, house salad, ginger beef, white rice and diced raddish and carrots. Collectively, the lunch boxes are a filling and satisfying alternative to the sushi.

While the lunch boxes offer strong variety, the Teriyaki , whether chicken or beef is a must have for anyone impartial to the sushi. Sweet and succulent, each bite is a burst of flavor, yet it only amplifies the taste of its accompanying side dishes. Yoshi’s twist on a simple dish is one of the few aspects that discern it from its competitors.

The lunch bento boxes provide a good alternative to dinner dining, coming in at about $10. With tip and drink, the lunch was less than $15.

At dinner, however, for the steep price, the food falls short. The end total for a sushi combo, a shrimp and vegetable tempura and two drinks during dinner time ended up at about $35 with tip. This combination did satisfy, but it was not overly generous. While Sushi Yoshi’s dinner dining did not satisfy, its lunch was on a roll.